Consumer Reports investigation:
Talking turkey
Our new tests show reasons for concern
Consumer Reports magazine: June 2013
In our first-ever lab analysis of ground turkey bought at
retail stores nationwide, more than half of the packages of raw ground
meat and patties tested positive for fecal bacteria. Some samples
harbored other germs, including salmonella and staphylococcus aureus,
two of the leading causes of foodborne illness in the U.S. Overall, 90
percent of the samples had one or more of the five bacteria for which we
tested.
Adding to the concern, almost all of the disease-causing
organisms in our 257 samples proved resistant to one or more of the
antibiotics commonly used to fight them. Turkeys (and other food
animals, including chickens and pigs) are given antibiotics to treat
acute illness; but healthy animals may also get drugs daily in their
food and water to boost their rate of weight gain and to prevent
disease. Many of the drugs are similar to antibiotics important in human
medicine.
That practice, especially prevalent at large feedlots and
mass-production facilities, is speeding the growth of drug-resistant
superbugs, a serious health concern. People sickened by those bacteria
might need to try several antibiotics before one succeeds. (Related:
Read "Has Your Steak Been Mechanically Tenderized?"
That report details a process that can drive bacteria like the deadly
pathogen E. coli O157:H7 from the surface deep into the center of the
meat.)
Among our findings:
- Sixty-nine percent of ground-turkey samples harbored enterococcus, and 60 percent harbored Escherichia coli. Those bugs are associated with fecal contamination. About 80 percent of the enterococcus bacteria were resistant to three or more groups of closely related antibiotics (or classes), as were more than half of the E. coli.
- Three samples were contaminated with methicillin-resistant staphylococcus aureus (MRSA), which can cause fatal infections.
- Ground turkey labeled “no antibiotics,” “organic,” or “raised
without antibiotics” was as likely to harbor bacteria as products
without those claims. (After all, even meat from organic birds can pick
up bacteria during slaughter or processing.) The good news is that
bacteria on those products were much less likely to be
antibiotic-resistant superbugs.
Get more details on our data.
From barn to burger
Conventionally raised turkeys are fed mostly corn and
soybean meal plus a vitamin and mineral supplement. They usually get
FDA-approved antibiotics that may be given in low doses without a
prescription. Before the birds are killed, antibiotics must be withdrawn
to ensure that residues clear from the birds’ systems.
But harm may already have been done. Although the
antibiotics eventually kill off vulnerable barnyard bugs, bacteria that
are immune to their effects can flourish and spread. They can exchange
genetic material with other bugs, further accelerating antibiotic
resistance. And bacteria on turkeys can develop resistance to similar
drugs that aren’t even given to turkeys.
Some bacteria that end up on ground turkey, including E.
coli and staph aureus, can cause not only food poisoning but also
urinary, bloodstream, and other infections.
Antibiotics aren’t allowed in turkeys labeled “organic,”
“no antibiotics,” or “raised without antibiotics.” (Sick birds may be
treated, but they’re then sold to nonorganic markets.) Organic birds
must eat only certified organic feed and pasture, which means no
genetically modified organisms; and production of those birds must not
contribute to contamination of soil or water. Producers of organic and
free-range turkeys must demonstrate to the Department of Agriculture
that they’ve allowed birds “access to the outside,” though that phrase
is not specifically defined and some birds may not venture outdoors.
Such steps are among the requirements for raising a food
animal sustainably—without drugs and in a way that’s more healthful for
animals and people.
Indeed, when we focused on antibiotic use, our analysis
showed that bacteria on turkey labeled “no antibiotics” or “organic”
were resistant to significantly fewer antibiotics than bacteria on
conventional turkey. We also found much more resistance to classes of
antibiotics approved for use in turkey production than to those not
approved for such use. Consumers Union, the advocacy arm of Consumer
Reports, believes that the FDA should ban all antibiotics in animal
production except to treat illness.
A need for stricter limits
When any food animal is slaughtered, the bacteria that
normally live in its gut without causing harm can wind up on its
carcass. To limit contamination, federal law requires processors to
create a Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point plan. For turkey
processors, HACCP includes steps for washing and chilling carcasses
throughout processing to reduce the growth of harmful bacteria and
contamination of the finished product.
But HACCP doesn’t require eradication of harmful
bacteria. In fact, salmonella is permitted in up to half of the
ground-turkey samples that the USDA’s Food Safety and Inspection
Service (FSIS) tests at processors’ plants. And bugs that remain can
keep growing until the turkey is cooked.
The current salmonella standard isn’t strict enough. The
USDA should allow no more than 12% contamination in ground-turkey
samples.
In 2011 Cargill Value Added Meats Retail announced two
voluntary recalls of a total of 36 million pounds of conventionally
raised ground turkey—among the largest recalls of poultry meat in U.S.
history—due to possible contamination with a resistant strain of
salmonella Heidelberg. The superbug was traced to a Cargill
establishment in Springdale, Ark. In all, 136 people fell ill during
that outbreak, according to the national Centers for Disease Control and
Prevention, and one of those victims died.
“As we’ve publicly stated over the past year and a half,
no stone was left unturned in our efforts to determine the originating
source of salmonella Heidelberg associated with the ground-turkey
recalls, yet to this day we do not know the origin of the bacteria
linked to outbreak of illnesses,” said Mike Robach, vice president of
corporate food safety and regulatory affairs for Cargill in Minneapolis.
He provided a long list of steps that Cargill has taken since the
outbreak to make its ground turkey safer.
In the wake of the recalls, the FSIS required all
ground-poultry processors to review and update their safety procedures,
paying special attention to the sanitation of equipment. The agency told
us that it also plans to conduct a risk assessment of salmonella and
campylobacter (another food-poisoning bacterium) in ground-turkey
products. The goal: a new standard for salmonella and, possibly,
campylobacter.
Eight ground-turkey samples in our tests, conducted a
year after the recalls, harbored salmonella that resisted three or more
antibiotic classes. One of those samples came from a package of turkey
processed at Cargill’s Springdale plant. It harbored a strain of
salmonella Heidelberg that was not the outbreak strain but resisted the
same antibiotics. Even a finding of the outbreak strain, the FSIS said,
“likely would not trigger a specific follow-up action by FSIS if steps
were previously taken for the affected establishment to regain control
of its operations.”
Consumers Union says the current salmonella standard
isn’t strict enough, and is urging the USDA to allow no more than 12
percent contamination in ground-turkey samples, a standard most of the
industry already meets.
Any improvement will come too late for consumers such as Diana Goodpasture,
66, of Akron, Ohio. She was sickened with salmonella Heidelberg from
ground turkey in June 2011 and was hospitalized for five days. “I’ve had
complications ever since then,” she says. “I’m still seeing a
gastroenterologist. I don’t know that I’ll ever be well.”
How resistant to antibiotics?
We determined whether samples of four bacteria isolated from our tested ground turkey could survive exposure to as many as 16 antibiotics at levels usually effective against those bugs. The antibiotics we tried differed with each bug and included ampicillin, ceftriaxone, ciprofloxacin, tetracycline, and others often used to treat the illnesses those bacteria cause. Classes are groups of similar antibiotics. Three of the 39 samples of staph aureus harbored MRSA, a potentially deadly bacterium.Bugs immune to drugs |
|||
---|---|---|---|
Bacterium | Samples tested |
Resisted one or more antibiotic classes |
Resisted three or more antibiotic classes |
Enterococcus | 178 |
177 |
144 |
Escherichia coli | 155 |
135 |
82 |
Staphylococcus aureus | 39 |
34 |
8 |
Salmonella | 12 |
11 |
8 |
What you can do
Slip up during handling and you risk illness.
Common slip-ups while handling or cooking ground turkey
can put you at risk of illness. Although the bacteria we found are
killed by thorough cooking, they can produce toxins that may not be
destroyed by heat. Take the following precautions:
- Buy turkey labeled “organic” or “no antibiotics,” especially if it also has a “USDA Process Verified” label, which means that the USDA has confirmed that the producer is doing what it says. Organic and no-antibiotics brands in our tests were: Coastal Range Organics, Eberly, Giant Eagle Nature’s Basket, Harvestland, Kosher Valley, Nature’s Place, Nature’s Promise, Nature’s Rancher, Plainville Farms, Wegmans, Whole Foods, and Wild Harvest.
- Consider other labels, such as “animal welfare approved” and “certified humane,” which mean that antibiotics were restricted to sick animals.
- Be aware that “natural” meat is simply minimally processed, with no artificial ingredients or added color. It can come from an animal that ate antibiotics daily.
- Know that no type of meat—whether turkey, chicken, beef, or pork—is risk free.
- Buy meat just before checking out, and place it in a plastic bag to prevent leaks.
- If you will cook meat within a couple of days, store it at 40° F or below. Otherwise, freeze it. (Note that freezing may not kill bacteria.)
- Cook ground turkey to at least 165° F. Check with a meat thermometer.
- Wash hands and all surfaces after handling ground turkey.
- Don’t return cooked meat to the plate that held it raw.
Sickened by a turkey burger?
Hours after she grilled a turkey burger for dinner in June 2011, Diana Goodpasture, 66, of Akron, Ohio, says she felt awful. “In the middle of the night, I woke up and I was sick,” she says. “I started to get an upset stomach and diarrhea, and then it just got progressively worse from there.”Goodpasture, a van driver, says she thought she’d caught a stomach flu, so she stayed home for a few days. But the gastrointestinal symptoms and crampy abdominal pain worsened. “It got so bad that my kids said, ‘You have to go to the hospital,’ ” she recalls. Goodpasture was hospitalized at Akron General Medical Center for five days.
Tests showed that she’d fallen ill from salmonella Heidelberg. The leftover ground turkey she’d frozen after dinner also tested positive when analyzed by the Summit County Public Health Department.
Almost two years later, Goodpasture says she’s still not completely well. “It has really messed up my intestinal system. And from what I can tell, that’s just a lifetime thing I’m going to have to deal with,” she says. “It changed my whole life.”
http://www.consumerreports.org/turkey0613
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